Louis Vuitton vs. Ralph Lauren: Which Brand Has the Better Restaurant?

Luxury labels have long been expansionist: Why limit oneself simply to apparel, for example, when you could own the entire lifestyle? Ralph Lauren , one of the first designers to bring their brand to your small intestines with the stand-alone, fashion-branded restaurant-as-destination concept, took things to another level when he opened the Polo Bar, in Manhattan, seven years ago. The latest to join the game is Louis Vuitton , with Mory Sacko at Louis Vuitton, which debuted this summer in Saint-Tropez . So who should you trust with your waistline? Here’s what you need to decide.

THE RESTAURANT Located in the garden of the White 1921 hotel in the heart of Saint-Tropez, Mory Sacko at Louis Vuitton keeps things simple, with manicured green hedges, elegant couches and chairs and hanging leather lanterns ($9,350 each) from the brand’s elite Objets Nomades collection. THE RESTAURANT With its dark wood, leather booths and so many equestrian photos and paintings that you might want to be careful where you step, the Polo Bar transports you from Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue to a private clubhouse. But it’s a friendly aristocracy—make yourself at home.

THE CHEF With a Michelin star and his own television show, Mory Sacko is one of the hottest young chefs in Paris, known for combining French cuisine with African and Japanese influences. Chef Mory Sacko Bony/SIPA Um, chef? The Polo Bar glorifies the days when good food just came from “the kitchen” and you had no idea which farm your arugula was grown on. THE DISH YOU WANT TO BE SEEN WITH The roasted sea bream in banana leaf with coconut, curry, aloe vera and lime ($51) nicely shows off Sacko’s flavor combinations—and with that Saint-Tropez sun, you’re going to want that aloe vera.

This is not the place to overthink the menu. Scan the page a few times if you must, then get the 22-ounce bone-in rib eye ($78) you knew you were going to order when you walked in. Courtesy of Ralph Lauren A Champagne-centric wine list where you can splurge on a Moët & Chandon 1921 ($4,000) or a methuselah of Dom Pérignon Vintage 1998 ($16,250).

Possibly unrelated, but parent company LVMH owns both brands. Courtesy of Moët Chandon This is Ralph’s house, so no need for airs or graces. A bottle of Château de Beaucastel 1989 ($700), with its bold cherry and dark fig flavors, will be just the job alongside the excellent corned-beef sandwich with horseradish coleslaw.

Facenda ENTRÉE MOST LIKELY TO SPILL ON YOUR OUTFIT The Bourbonnais chicken ($46) is served with mafé, a thick traditional West African sauce made with peanut butter. Scrape off anything that falls onto your suit with a dull knife; with pb one never rubs the stain. After you’ve spent a long day swinging a mallet from your saddle, no one would fault you if some cream sauce dripped off your New York strip steak ($68).

Blot that spot with a napkin, then run under cold water. BEST OUTFIT TO MATCH YOUR FOOD With splashes of floral color over monogrammed blue denim, the Destroyed Workwear denim jacket ($4,850) is the perfect accompaniment to go with Mory Sacko’s lunchtime Japanese meal tray ($66) featuring the vibrant hues of assorted dishes served on custom-made wooden salvers. Courtesy of Louis Vuitton No outfit could be more appropriate for this restaurant’s decor than the Hacking suit ($7,490), designed for horseback and made from luxury suede.

And nothing could be more Ralph Lauren than wearing this English-style cut while snarfing down an oh-so-American Polo Bar burger ($30; hand-cut fries included). Courtesy of Ralph Lauren CAN I EVEN GET IN THE PLACE? Yes. Reserve online, have some flexibility, and you should be all right.

Weekday second service (after 10 pm) is easiest. CAN I EVEN GET IN THE PLACE? Maybe. Most reservations are offered via telephone rather than online, which may mean if they don’t know you, maybe not.

YOU EAT WITH YOUR EYES FIRST 9,558K Instagram followers . Photos of Chef, his colorful dishes and the restaurant’s equally tasty decor. .